The Ultimate Junior Guide to Pole Top Kits & Elastic

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The Ultimate Junior Guide to Pole Top Kits & Elastic

Get it Right, Land More Fish, and Have More Fun!

When you first start using a fishing pole, it can feel like a mystery. You see other anglers lifting into fish, elastic stretching from the tip, and carp sliding into landing nets as if by magic. But what’s really going on inside that pole? How does that stretchy stuff make such a difference? And why do some anglers talk about “top kits” as if they’re secret weapons? 

The truth is that your top kit and elastic setup are the heart of pole fishing. They decide how your rig behaves, how your fish fights feel, and how many you actually land. Get it wrong, and you’ll bump fish off, snap hooklengths, or lose control. Get it right, and everything feels smooth, balanced, and in tune — like the pole is working with you, not against you. 

So, let’s dig in. This guide will explain what top kits are, how they differ, how to choose the right elastic, what puller systems do, how to connect your rigs, and how to look after it all. We’ll even cover how to re-elasticate a kit yourself — because every good angler should know how. By the end, you’ll understand not just what to use, but why.

Part One: What Is a Top Kit?

A pole top kit is simply the first two (sometimes three) sections of your pole. It’s the part that holds your elastic — the stretchy rubber that acts as a shock absorber between your rig and the fish. When a fish pulls, the elastic stretches, protecting your line and hooklength. When it stops pulling, the elastic retracts, bringing the fish gently under control. 

Without it, pole fishing would be impossible. You’d strike at a bite and — snap! — that would be the end of your rig. Elastic allows you to fish light lines and small hooks while still being able to land fish of all sizes safely. 

Most poles come with different types of top kits — each designed for a certain style of fishing. Choosing the right one makes a massive difference. 

Match or Standard Top Kits?

These are the lightest and most sensitive top kits. You’ll usually find them on poles used for silver fish — roach, rudd, perch, skimmers, and the like. They’re slim, light, and ideal when you need to use fine hooklengths and small floats. 

Inside, you’ll usually fit a light solid elastic, maybe a No.3, 4, or 5. That means when a small fish takes your bait, the elastic moves just enough to cushion the strike and stop the hook pulling out. It also gives you better bite detection — that tiny stretch tells you exactly what’s happening under the surface. 

Match kits are brilliant for winter fishing too. When the water’s cold and fish aren’t feeding aggressively, you want a soft setup that shows every delicate bite and plays fish gently. A match top kit gives you that finesse. 

They’re also great for learning because they reward good technique. Juniors who start with light elastics and learn to play fish properly soon become smooth, patient anglers. Every little roach feels exciting when you’re fishing balanced gear.

Power Top Kits

Now we move to the heavy artillery. Power kits are thicker, stronger, and built to handle big elastic and big fish. If your local fishery has carp, tench, or F1s, this is what you’ll want. 

They’re often slightly shorter and have reinforced walls, so they don’t flex as much when you strike or play fish. Inside, you’ll use hollow elastic from around No.10 to No.20, depending on the size of the fish. The extra power helps when carp decide to bolt for the reeds or under your platform. 

Power kits let you fish stronger hooklengths and slightly heavier rigs without fear of breaking off. You can still play fish smoothly, but you’ve got that safety net of strength if a lump takes your bait. Most commercial anglers carry at least three or four power kits ready to go — some for open water, some for margins, and some for F1s.

F1 or Hybrid Top Kits

Think of these as the middle ground — a blend of match and power. F1 top kits are designed for moderate elastic strengths and all-round fishing. They’re perfect when you might catch anything from small skimmers to 5lb carp. 

Because they’re not too stiff or too soft, they’re the “everyday” top kit. Many juniors and club anglers use these as their go-to choice. You can fit something like a No.8 or No.10 hollow elastic, and you’ll be ready for almost anything a commercial fishery throws at you. 

They’re also a great teaching tool. With one setup, you can experiment with different target species and methods without constantly changing gear.

Side Puller Kits

This is where modern pole fishing gets clever. A side puller kit has a small hole and roller fitted in the side of the No.2 section. The elastic runs through it, and when you hook a fish, you can pull extra elastic out manually to increase pressure and land the fish faster. 

It’s like having adjustable gears on a bike — soft to start with, then firmer when you need more power. You can let a fish run freely at first, then tighten up when it’s under control. It also means you can keep your elastic shorter, making it easier to unship and net fish quickly. 

Most anglers now use side pullers on their power kits. Once you’ve tried one, you’ll never go back. They give you total control, reduce tangles, and make playing fish smoother. For juniors learning how to control pressure, they’re brilliant — you can feel how the elastic works.

Bottom Puller Kits

Similar idea, but instead of the puller being on the side, it’s at the very bottom of the No.2 section. Some anglers prefer this layout because it’s easier to reach when fishing short or in the margins. It’s a personal choice — side pullers are slightly more popular overall, but both do the same job.

Why Different Top Kits Exist

So why not just use one top kit for everything? Because every fishing situation is different. A roach nibbling on a canal and a 10lb carp in a commercial lake behave completely differently. Using a heavy elastic for silvers would mean missing bites or pulling out of fish. Using light elastic for carp would mean hooklengths breaking constantly. 

The top kit lets you adapt your pole to the situation. Swap the kit, and your entire setup changes instantly. It’s like changing the tyres on a car — same engine, different performance. 

Part Two:

All About Pole Elastic

If your top kit is the engine, the elastic is the gearbox. It decides how smoothly your power is delivered. There are three main types: solid, hollow, and hybrid. 

Solid Elastic

This is the traditional choice. Solid elastic is made from a single piece of latex or synthetic rubber. It’s smooth, reliable, and very sensitive. It doesn’t stretch as far as hollow elastic, but that makes it more responsive for small fish. 

When you’re catching roach, perch, and skimmers, solid elastic is ideal. It starts stretching the moment a fish pulls, giving instant feedback. That’s why it’s so good in winter — it reacts quickly to delicate bites and doesn’t sag or stick in cold weather. 

However, it’s limited in range. If a 6lb carp takes off on solid No.4, you’ll quickly run out of stretch and probably lose it. So, while solid is perfect for silvers, it’s not designed for heavy-duty battles.

Hollow Elastic

Hollow elastic changed pole fishing forever. It’s made from an outer skin with an air-filled core, giving it a much greater stretch range. That means it starts soft and forgiving, then firms up the further it stretches — perfect for carp fishing. 

With hollow elastic, you can use one setup for a wide range of fish sizes. A No.10 hollow might cushion a 1lb skimmer and still control a 6lb carp. That makes it extremely versatile. 

It also works beautifully with side pullers because you can let it stretch as needed, then shorten it when you want more control. The only thing to remember is that hollow elastic needs care — rinse your top kits, use lubricant, and replace it when it feels flat or sticky.

Hybrid Elastic

Hybrid elastic sits between solid and hollow. It’s a newer design that combines a solid core with a smooth, coated outer layer. It’s durable, resists sticking, and feels silky when playing fish. 

For clubs and juniors, hybrids are a brilliant choice because they last longer than traditional latex and don’t need as much maintenance. You can fish them all year round, and they still feel consistent. If you’re not sure where to start, a mid-range hybrid (say No.8–12) is a fantastic option.

Part Three

Elastic Ratings and Choosing the Right Power

Elastic is rated by numbers — the higher the number, the stronger it is. But don’t fall into the trap of thinking higher is always better. It’s all about matching your elastic to the fish you’re targeting and the line strength you’re using. 

Here’s how it breaks down in real terms: 

  • No.3–5: Light solid elastic for silvers, canals, and winter work. Soft and sensitive.
  • No.6–8: Light hollow or hybrid for small carp, crucians, or F1s. Great all-rounder.
  • No.10–12: Medium power for general carp fishing on commercials.
  • No.14–16: Heavy hollow for big carp and margin fishing.
  • No.18–20+: Extra heavy-duty for serious lumps or snaggy venues.

The key is balance. A light hooklength (say 0.10 mm) won’t work well with heavy elastic — you’ll pull out of fish. Likewise, a 0.18 mm line is wasted on a No.5 solid — you’ll never set the hook properly. Everything in your setup should work in harmony.

Adjusting for the Seasons

are you bumping fish in winter?

Here’s a tip that separates beginners from smart anglers: don’t use the same elastic all year round. In summer, fish are strong and aggressive, so you need more power. In winter, they’re slower and bites are lighter, so you need something softer. 

If you use a No.12 hollow in summer, try stepping down to a No.8 or 10 in winter. You’ll get more bites and lose fewer fish because the lighter elastic shows delicate indications and cushions the fight better. It’s the same reason we use smaller hooks and lighter rigs when the water’s cold — it’s all about finesse. 

FAQ section image
FAQs

Matching Your Setup to the Fish You’re Targeting

Now that you understand the different types of elastics and top kits, it’s time to put it all together. Choosing elastic isn’t just about a number — it’s about what you’re fishing for and where you’re fishing. Each species fights differently. A roach might wriggle and twist, while a carp powers off in long runs. A tench will dive and hold deep, whereas a bream will roll and plod. Understanding these behaviours helps you choose the right elastic strength and stretch.

  • Typical venues: canals, small stillwaters, drains, and slow rivers.
    Elastic choice: No.3–5 solid or soft hybrid.
    Why: You need sensitivity. Roach bites are lightning-fast, and a stiff elastic will pull the hook straight out. Light solid elastic cushions the strike, helps detect gentle bites, and makes every small fish feel lively.
    Tip: In winter, go as light as you can — even a No.3 can make a big difference when fish are shy. 

  • Typical venues: commercials, stillwaters, and canals.
    Elastic choice: No.5–7 solid or soft hollow.
    Why: Skimmers often suck the bait gently before moving off. You need a forgiving elastic that allows them to take the bait without resistance.
    Bonus: This setup still has enough power for the odd bigger fish that moves into your swim. 

  • Typical venues: commercials and club ponds.
    Elastic choice: No.6–10 hollow or hybrid.
    Why: These fish are quick, darting fighters. A soft start with hollow elastic keeps them under control, and the progressive stretch means you can land fish of mixed sizes on the same kit.
    Tip: Many top anglers use hollow No.8 for F1s — it’s the perfect all-round rating.

  • Typical venues: natural stillwaters and lakes.
    Elastic choice: No.8–12 hollow or hybrid.
    Why: Tench are deep-diving, muscular fish that test your tackle. You need enough stretch to absorb sudden dives but not so much that they bury you in the reeds.
    Tip: A hollow No.10 with a side puller gives perfect control for tench up to 5lb. 

  • Typical venues: commercial fisheries and carp ponds.
    Elastic choice: No.12–16 hollow or hybrid.
    Why: Carp fight hard, but you can’t go too heavy or you’ll miss delicate bites. No.14 is the sweet spot for most club waters — enough power to control fish but still forgiving.
    Tip: Use side pullers so you can shorten the elastic during the fight for more control.

  • Typical venues: commercial margins and warm-weather sessions.
    Elastic choice: No.16–20+ heavy hollow.
    Why: When big carp hit the margins, they charge straight for cover. You need stopping power! Heavy hollow elastic and a strong top kit help you turn them quickly.
    Tip: Use reinforced power kits and keep your top kit short — 2 sections max — for better leverage. 

  • Typical venues: canals, slow rivers, drains.
    Elastic choice: No.5–8 solid or hybrid.
    Why: You might catch roach, perch, skimmers, and the occasional small chub. You need something light enough for silvers but strong enough to deal with a surprise.
    Tip: No.6 hybrid is the perfect compromise — soft enough for roach, with stretch for a 2lb bonus fish.

  • When temperatures drop, fish become cautious. They mouth the bait instead of grabbing it, and heavy elastics can feel too unforgiving. Step down one or two grades from your summer setup. 

    If you normally use a No.12 hollow, switch to a No.8. If you use No.6 solid, drop to No.4. It sounds small, but it can double your bites and stop fish from spooking. In winter, it’s always better to play fish gently than to rip the hook out. 

Final thoughts

Why All This Matters?

When juniors learn to match their tackle to their target fish, they stop relying on luck and start thinking like anglers. It’s not about having the most expensive pole — it’s about balance, understanding, and respect for fish. 

Using the correct top kit and elastic means: 

  • Fewer lost rigs and snapped lines.
  • Fish played safely and landed faster.
  • More enjoyment and confidence at the net.
  • A real sense of control instead of chaos.


It’s also a lesson in patience and precision. Every adjustment — one elastic grade, one connector change, one small tweak — makes a difference. And once you see that difference in action, you’ll understand why good anglers always say: “The right setup catches the most fish.”


Final Thoughts

Your pole is like a musical instrument — the top kit and elastic are its strings. Tune them properly, and you can play every note beautifully. Too tight, and you’ll snap; too loose, and you’ll lose rhythm. Get it right, and fishing feels effortless.
 
At Summerhayes Juniors, we teach that angling isn’t just about catching fish — it’s about understanding them. The more you know about your tackle, the more connected you feel to what’s happening under the surface. That’s where real skill begins.
 
So next time you set up your pole, think about the journey the elastic takes — from the fish’s first pull, through your top kit, and into your hands. That’s the link between you and the fish. Make it work smoothly, and you’ll not only catch more, but you’ll enjoy every moment of it.
 

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